I have a 1jzgte that I am trying to get running right. I wired it for sequential injection and I have 80 lb siemens deka injectors. I set the base fuel pressure at 44 psi. I put lq9 ignition coils on it but everything else is pretty much stock. Can anyone see if they can find any issues with the tune. It runs but it is rich, like 10.5.
So I try lowered the ve table values to lean it out and then it starts popping and missing. Even though it is still rich. I have a aem wideband so I'm sure it's reading accurately. I have new NGK BKR7E spark plugs that I gapped to 24 thousandths. I made the ignition table at idle all 15 degrees and checked it with a timing light and it is right on. I unplugged each coil while it was running to check if each plug was firing and all of them are. I have pressure tested the intercooler piping and there aren't any leaks either. I also have done a compression test and that wasn't the issue either. I should have plenty of grounds also, I put them from intake to head to ignition coil ground to battery ground to block to body. It also seems to get worse as the engine heats up. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
1jzgte sounds like it's missing
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- sequential first try.emulog
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- sequential 2018 changed charge temp.emu
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Re: 1jzgte sounds like it's missing
I just had a quick look and no trigger errors so it just needs a tune it will never run well when its almost off the scale rich the whole time!! ... Have you calibrated the external sensor so it matches the EMU lambda??
you should use the internal wideband controller when ever possible!!
... maybe drop your target back to 0.96 or so around the idle area the adjust your VE table til the the lambda matches the target
you should use the internal wideband controller when ever possible!!
... maybe drop your target back to 0.96 or so around the idle area the adjust your VE table til the the lambda matches the target
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Re: 1jzgte sounds like it's missing
Thanks for the quick responds. Yes, I have calibrated it with the emu. I just tried lowering the ve table and I can get it to run around the 14 afr but it is popping like crazy and the idle isn't consistent at all. I just did another quick log. I am not sure how accurate my charge temp data is. I ordered a new iat sensor and I am going to put it in the intercooler piping so it shouldn't get heat soaked like the factory one seems like it would. Any other suggestions? I could take it to a shop some where, but I don't really like other people messing with my stuff. thanks
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Re: 1jzgte sounds like it's missing
I have finally found the issue with it. Not the solution yet. The coils are firing when they should it is just really weak. I put a spark plug tester light thing inline and it just barely lights up when using the test output function. Then I put it on my truck which has the same coils and it lights up bright each time the plug fires. Anyone have any idea why it is getting so weak of spark?
Re: 1jzgte sounds like it's missing
I wonder if I'm having the same problem.ryanaxberg wrote: ↑Sat Mar 31, 2018 10:07 pmI have finally found the issue with it. Not the solution yet. The coils are firing when they should it is just really weak. I put a spark plug tester light thing inline and it just barely lights up when using the test output function. Then I put it on my truck which has the same coils and it lights up bright each time the plug fires. Anyone have any idea why it is getting so weak of spark?
EMU Black though. Weak spark at idle, car runs well under load.
Re: 1jzgte sounds like it's missing
Weak spark? WoW!
Did you ever seen the dwell calibration table for ignition coils ? What is your voltage at idle?
Really chaking my Head and wondering, what you can write.
Cant say what you are doing bad, because i never recomend to use 25Y old coils, injector, sensors. We replace them all for new Bosch products, individual coils, making new wirring harness, and since then we dont have any issues........
Did you ever seen the dwell calibration table for ignition coils ? What is your voltage at idle?
Really chaking my Head and wondering, what you can write.
Cant say what you are doing bad, because i never recomend to use 25Y old coils, injector, sensors. We replace them all for new Bosch products, individual coils, making new wirring harness, and since then we dont have any issues........
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Re: 1jzgte sounds like it's missing
First of all they aren't 25 year old coils, they are from a ls2 so like 2006. Voltage at idle is like 14.5. I also have brand new injectors, knock sensors, map sensor is in the ecu, and I am getting a new iat sensor. I just recently put in the dwell times from a 2006 gto which would have the same coils. The settings I had for dwell were pretty much right on at 14 volts where it was idling at, so that shouldn't be an issue.
Re: 1jzgte sounds like it's missing
Did you test your injectors and specially balance between them at very low DC, almost at time close to death time ?
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Re: 1jzgte sounds like it's missing
I have tested just that each injector is firing, I'm not sure how I would tell the balance between them. The injector pulse width is at like 1.5 ms at idle. Let me tell you how I have the coils wired and see if you know why this is happening. I have it wired is I have it going through a plug and play adapter from the emu to a jzz30 factory harness. But I have a brand new wiring specialties harness. But I have also done some wiring to it because of going sequential injection and also changing the coils. So when I did the swap I got rid of the factory igniter because the factory coils didn't have a built in amplifier, but the lq9 ones do. So I got rid of the igniter and looped the wires that went into igniter with the corresponding wires that came out of it, so I just bypassed it. I am using a test light that I plug into a battery positive and negative, and it can show ground or power. So how I have it wired up now if I put a test light on the ignition one output and I use the test output function and go to igniton one, on the emu it flashes red that means that it is getting power. So I cut the ignition 1 output signal wire directly off of the emu, bypassing everything else to test to see if it was getting the signal when I did the test ignition output function, and when I test it instead of flashing red when it should it is just sending a ground signal to it, when I hit the test igniton 1. So that seems weird. I am taking the engine out today and I am going to get all the wiring issues figured out first and make the loom nice again. It seems to me like I should run a wire directly from the igniton output on the emu to the corresponding ignition coil signal wire.