Ecumaster forum

Hi, car wouldnt start but it cranks. We can smell there is fuel and the sparks plugs are wet with it. Seemed like it wasn't igniting so we did the below:

- Removed one of the ignition wires with spark plugs to see if it sparks-- no spark while cranking
- Connected a test light to the coil to see if has power while cranking-- there was no power while cranking
- Unplugged the coil wire if it sparks-- no spark while cranking
- Changed the distributor to a known working-- no go
- Changed ignition and coil wires-- no go
- Changed the coil to a known working-- no go
- Changed the igniter to a known working-- no go

We then changed the ECU to Apexi Power FC it wouldnt start still but this time it started sparking so I dont think it is a wiring issue. We even unplugged all spark plugs to see if it really sparks and they did. I think it is being flooded by fuel thats why it wouldnt start with the Power FC, this Power FC is configured and tuned to a stock motor and injector low impedance 540cc while I'm running now with 1000cc high impedance ones, I just didnt have the Power FC commander or the datalogit to mess with the settings. It left me now with just the EMU, either it is shot or there is something in the software/settings I should be looking at.

Can someone check my scope and logs below along with the map and advise what could be done?

We have just rebuilt the engine the last time it started was around December before taking the engine out. Nothing has been changed aside from adding a pair of adjustable cam gears, would these cause a no spark issue?

you have no cam sensor signal in the logs, and your scope is blank with no signals at all

Yeah sorry RHD I just realized the scope didnt pick anything up. Anyway, update is that we suspect it was the starter. We have managed to get it to start for a couple of days but it is hot starting still which was my old issue. And then just yesterday it wouldnt start again. It cranks but not spark. We tried a different starter and it fired up, but still hot starting. We are going to check the grounding and add a starter relay, we think the starter gets cooked as the engine bay is really hot. The starter is just behind the rad fan so the heat from rad directly goes to it, and it is next to the manifold.

We knew it was it as when we pulled the distributor and spinned it manually, it sparks. But when we plug it in and cranks, it doesnt spark. So the rotation isnt that fast thats why the ECU is not detecting it is turning over.

here is the scope

your still not getting any cam/sync signal

you can also try running your coils power supply directly from another realy too

^ Hi RHD, that's the clean log when we still had the issue. Now it has been fixed by hooking up a starter relay.

If I connected a relay to the coil power supply, will it spark even if the starter is weak cranking slow?

First of All, It is nice to speak to another gen 2 3s-gte user. I have not put my emu in the car yet. (the car is off the road at the minute)

After looking at the map. It looks like the ignition outputs are all pointing to plug 1. If I seem as though it is grandma sucking eggs, then I apologise. Try changing the ignition events to follow the standard firing order. (1-3-4-2). On your ignition tab, try changing the coils type to "coils without amplifier", as I don't think the engine uses an igniter function to supply the king lead with power.

If I can help any further, let me know.

Martyn

audiodjmp77 wrote:First of All, It is nice to speak to another gen 2 3s-gte user. I have not put my emu in the car yet. (the car is off the road at the minute)

After looking at the map. It looks like the ignition outputs are all pointing to plug 1. If I seem as though it is grandma sucking eggs, then I apologise. Try changing the ignition events to follow the standard firing order. (1-3-4-2). On your ignition tab, try changing the coils type to "coils without amplifier", as I don't think the engine uses an igniter function to supply the king lead with power.

If I can help any further, let me know.

Martyn

It has a distributor, so all ignition signals need to go to ignition channel 1. Please don't advise someone to change their ignition outputs if you are not absolutely sure what you're doing.

WHPZach wrote:It has a distributor, so all ignition signals need to go to ignition channel 1. Please don't advise someone to change their ignition outputs if you are not absolutely sure what you're doing.

OK, It was only an idea. I am learning about the ECU and still have a lot to learn.