Ecumaster forum

Has anyone been able to get any meaningful readings from a standard 2jz knock sensor?? If you did what frequency works??

all i seem to get is a lot of noise and almost no knock detection.

Or is it just better to change them out for a proper 2 wire sensor like a Bosch etc???

my setup 2jz-gte

Hi,

I think that it is nearly impossible to get accurate readings from an original knock sensor. Allmost in any situation the engine will produce a lot more noise than the knocking noise would be at very light knocking. So you're not able to recognize light knocking. Every professional tuner uses headphones while tuning an engine to hear those small knocking noises. A computer isn't able to decide correctly.

A big amount of engine knocking you will hear without any helping tools and you will also notice that while driving.

Those original knock sensors aren't made for tuning reasons, they have just a type of fail save function, think about something going terrible wrong with an engine from a normal person. He would not know that the rattling noise he hears is knocking and probaply destroy something through driving ahead. But with the knock sensor, the check engine light turns on and he hopefully notice that. And the engine will run on some failsave maps.

For tuning reasons, you can take these phormula phones. I also heard about some people just using a metal plate attached to the engine block with a vacuum line connected to a pair of hearing protectors

I hope I could help
Thilo

yes, just switch to flat response sensor. The Toyota 2 wire works really well, and the 90126-A0008 Toyota stud makes mounting them in stock sensor location a breeze. Tq. to 15ft/lb for best performance.

Thanks, yes i came to the same conclusions and already scoped out those late model adapter studs

i will just run one sensor and use the 2 single wires from each oem sensor since they are already there and nicely shielded etc.

Run 2, and ground the new sensors at the Intake manifold. Not 100% ideal, but it does work...

yes but doesnt that mean the sensor ground is then connected to the chassis ground?...... im not sure how they are even working at the moment since i just connected the single wires to the knock inputs within the harness adapter so in theory they are not grounded to the sensor ground at all??

RHD wrote:yes but doesnt that mean the sensor ground is then connected to the chassis ground?...... im not sure how they are even working at the moment since i just connected the single wires to the knock inputs within the harness adapter so in theory they are not grounded to the sensor ground at all??

Like I said, it's not ideal but it does work. I probably run a little higher integrator (more noise filtering), than if it was connected to B18, but it's tune for effect anyway.

ATS_Scott wrote:yes, just switch to flat response sensor. The Toyota 2 wire works really well, and the 90126-A0008 Toyota stud makes mounting them in stock sensor location a breeze. Tq. to 15ft/lb for best performance.

you wouldn't happen to know the correct setup parameters and noise frequencys for these sensors would you?

there is a mathematical formula for determining the frequency and its based on the cylinder bore size. the knock sensor transmits all frequencies, that's why there is noise with the signal.
you have to tell the emu what frequency to look for. if youre using a supplied base map for the 2jzgte, it already is entered based on the 2jz bore.
you need to go and do no load/low load runs through the rpm band and monitor the amplitude of the knock signal being read. youll read an entire range of voltage. you have to set the knock threshold on the 2d map so that noise below the highest peaks at each rpm point is the maximum noise from engine harmonics. the goal is to try to avoid having the knock threshold above 3.5v max. I set up my knock feedback according to motec's instructions.