Toyota SC (Soarer) 1UZ-FE - DET Install/Set-Up - Wiring,etc

[Chambers]

Yea, this is interesting. I looked at the inputs you can use and its a freq in/out as well as two others.

[ihiryu]

Any news on this?

[Chambers]

None on that particular item.

I've made my first step towards FI, I got the IAT working. My next goal is to do the necessary wiring for the other req. sensors. I will updated once completed.

[Chambers]

I've got everything set up but I cant get the engine to continue running, it starts then stalls when it reaches afterstart mode. Not sure what to check at this point.

https://youtu.be/YoVagk0lmI0

[ihiryu]

Did you move over to FIT mode?

[Chambers]

Yes that was the fuel implant version.

[Chambers]

Since I wasn't able to get the engine to run with FI, I went back to freq modification. I put the stock AFM back in and updated firmware to the standard DET3.

So far I've found the freq in from the Karman Vortex sensor for the 1UZ produces a range of ~5Hz - ~1300Hz with 5-6lbs of boost. My initial research had shown a range of 16Hz - 3000Hz, this may be the operating range of the sensor, but not the actual readings of the 1UZ engine.

Now I'm having stalling issues upon the engine coming off any rpm above idle. I've logged this stall, the RPM drops to around 200 the freq in around 5Hz, and the freq out is about the same. The engine then stalls, I still need to overlay the AFRs to see if the engine is loading up on fuel and the IAC motor cannot compensate the rich condition from the larger fuel injectors.

On a side note, since I've corrected the freq settings I have a super rich condition all of the time, my map values are now heavily negative. I may have to re-install the factory fuel injectors to bring the values back to positive. If the operating range of the KV sensor is 3000Hz then the limiting factor is the Hz range the ECU understands and can work with, and at this point that is an unknown, and potentially will be unless someone can unlock it.

[ihiryu]

Have you disconnected the o2 sensors??

Also, what about your BOV? Is it plumbed back into the intake? If not, all of that needs to be done first.

Unless you run a blow through setup

[Chambers]

O2 sensors are still connected.

Its currently in blow through, the BOV is pre AFM.

I think the ECU is going bad, I have a CEL with no codes now. I'm going to swap it out if I have another ECU handy and see what happens. I think I may have caused damaged running the wrong impedance injectors for a while and then trying to run FI mode with no load on the FI connections on the ECU.

[ihiryu]

Possibly,

I know when I still had my SC400, my car would do some crazy things when the capacitors started to leak. I know LSCowboy on CL rebuilds them

[Chambers]

So swapped the ECU out with a 92 unit, and the CEL is gone. However the engine still stalls, I think the 1UZ programming just doesn't like the modded freq signal.

I know the earlier ECUs had capacitor problems, but the architecture of the latter ECUs does differ. I will check mine out.

[ihiryu]

I mean the easy way to test that would just to connect the AFM wire back to stock.

Leave the DET3 in place, just hook up the AFM wires back together to see what it does.

Since it is a freq sensor, it might need a pull up? I doubt it, but you never know

[Chambers]

So the CEL came on with the 92 ECU as well, I haven't check the code yet but I fear its the same...

I'm using the pull-up now.

I'm still investigating this issue. I will keep updating as needed.

[Chambers]

So I have done some parts swapping and testing, I may have a faulty IACV motor. When the engine is ready to stall I compensate by lightly pressing the throttle in. The car will "idle" then the "idle" will rise and the AFRs will lean out slightly before its corrected like the IACV motor was stuck and then breaks free.

Note, I think this was caused by all of the low voltage cranking I was doing attempting to get the FI mode to work. I may have fouled the stepper motor in the process. I plan on swapping out the IACV this week.

[Antwan64og]

Yea, this is interesting. I looked at the inputs you can use and its a freq in/out as well as two others.

Sorry, I just remember to check this topic, you just select the input type. You want analog input for the wideband, you don't need the factory AFM/MAF anymore with the MAP conversion.




And yeah tuning any car from scratch is a ball ache, especially cold start.

Good luck with the project anyway