Honda OBD1 B Series Setup

[BillyC]

There doesn't seem to be any real info about the setup for a Honda B series so I will post my current setup. If there was some documentation on this it would have saved me tons of time. I still don't have all the details worked out yet but I have the triggers and ignition working correctly. The car starts and runs.

OBD1 HONDA JDM B16A
Stock distributor
Stock ICM and Coil
Cam gears set to stock position
Distributor physical position setup with stock ECU locked at 16BTDC

I will also include the Honda/Acura OBD0 OBD1 OBD2a/b wiring cheat sheet I made for building my own plug and play harness. This sheet also includes the trigger setup in case picture hosting stops working some day.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... sp=sharing

Hope this helps someone.
If anyone else has this setup and can share some settings for the stock PWM idle control valve that would also help. I can't seem to get any settings to work correctly there. The idle just raises above the setpoint the moment I enable it.

[BillyC]

I have the car running pretty well. The EMU Black is a truly nice piece of hardware. Very intuitive and easy to dial in. I hope the mods here can get the forums under control. With a little more community support I could see a lot more tuners turning toward this as an alternative to the other competition out there.

To pick up where I left off in my last post about the PWM Idle Air Control Valve...
I set the frequency at 500Hz and dialed the duty cycle back to around 40% base dc. I'm using the PID controller with the stock setting as well as some ignition advance with the PID for small changes. The car idles better than stock. Here is an image of my settings.

I was having repeated issues with a misfire at about 6000 rpm when hot and 4000 when cold. I think I narrowed that down to coil dwell settings. The motor has fresh plugs gapped at .030 (oem recommends 1.1mm or .043). I set the base dwell to about 3.9ms at 14v which is a little higher than most standalone ECU's put this for the OBD1 ICM. I then have the Dwell RPM correction pull dwell down to around 60% by 5000RPM. This seemed to have cleared up it most of the misfire problems but it was still thre everyone once in a while under hevy throttle. I also added map correction that would pull it back even furth to about 88%. This seemed to clear up all misfire issues. This runs the dwell down around 2ms at the low point. It seems like that is right on track for this load/RPM area when comparing to other setups. I don't really like the way the EMU does the coil dwell calculations. I'd rather have an XY graph with voltage and rpm. There is no real circumstance where high RPM and low voltage should try to run dwell higher but there are times when low rpm and low voltage would. The dwell time at high rpm is really being limited by the time it takes distributor to reach the next cylinder.

I'm still having issues with the speed sensor giving me a reliable signal but the tune is to a point where I'm comfortable enough sharing it. See attached.

[BillyC]

Got back to driving the car today and there is still a bad misfire at 6000rpm. It seems to come and go which is really hard to diagnose.

I've attached the log if anyone has any ideas. Here is a screenshot of the spot.

[valsorimkaran]

As far as I can see, your problem is in the Cam sync trigger, from 24 to 3.

[BillyC]

Thanks for taking the time to check that out! It seems obvious now and I should have suspected that. The Honda distributors are notorious for wobbling at high speeds. I'm sure noise could be the problem as well. ECUmaster tech support also replied with some recommendations on how to solve the issues. They are very responsive and helpful every time I send them an email.

Tech support recommended turning off camsync above 4000RPM. As far as I can tell it was a great fix and the car runs perfectly now. I'll upload the new tune to forum once I have it dialed in a bit better. Now that it's getting colder here I've had an opportunity to dial in cold start and warm-up more.

[h1tman]

Hello,

How it`s going? Is there any progress your HONDA OBD1 Emu BlacK conversion?
I will also be adding Emu Black to my honda but to OBD2 engine so any info is appreciated

[BillyC]

The car has been running great for about 2 months now. This car is my winter beater daily driver and I commute about 50 miles a day in NYC traffic. It has some trouble with starting on cold mornings less than 13*F or so. It will start but it requires a lot of cranking. The oem Honda ECU probably has some clever stuff it does with the IACV and fueling to be so consistent. I haven't had enough mornings cold enough to try to get it any better than I have it now. Other than that it is as good or better than the stock ECU. Idle control is spot on and drivability is great but will depend on the tune.

I think I already posted my wiring cross reference but here it is again if you need it. It has OBD1 and OBD2.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... sp=sharing

I'll see if I can get my latest tune uploaded as well.

What is your setup? Engine? Chassis?

[h1tman]

At this moment i have Accord CD7 with NA H23A VTEC swap and Hondata S300. Its OBD1.
Few days ago i purchased EMU Black and i plan to first put it in this car first to get it to know better.

Then i plan to buy 99-02 Accord and put there forged H22 with GTX3076R turbo. This will be OBD2 car.

In the first car at this moment i am using 2 pin IACV with no FITV valve and on cold days at first start up car idles purly. This is because of lack the FITV.

When i put EMU Black it i plan to use the OBD2 3-pin IACV that do not need the FITV valve.

[BillyC]

The H Series and B Series setups should be very similar. I did an H22A build a few years back and it was pretty much all the same stuff just more displacement. All aftermarket standalones are going to like the crank mounted signal more than the distributor signals so for that reason alone going with the OBD2 H is a better choice.

Here is a thread showing the sensors I'm talking about.
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=11261&p=21525&hilit=honda#p21525

I also had another spreadsheet specifically for swapping OBD2 over to OBD1 in the Accord. The swap I did was an OBD1 engine into and OBD2 chassis but eventually the chassis got fully converted to OBD1 to run a chipped OBD1 P72. There are also a few revisions of OBD2 so things are slightly different from revision to revision. A is the most similar to OBD1 being the oldest. I don't remember the year changeover but I think the OEM ecu connectors are an indicator of the which one it is.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... sp=sharing

As far as the IACV (Idle air control valve) and FICV (fast idle control valve) go, the OBD1 B16A runs a two-wire IACV. My B16A also has the stock throttle body with the FICV. The FICV seems like a purely mechanical device that allows more air to bypass the throttle plate on cold starts. During warmup, the FICV and IACV work together to regulate idle because I would guess the IACV has a very narrow window of accurate operation. This seems to be somewhere around 40% duty cycle based on my testing. Because of this, the duty cycle stays about the same through warmup. Ideally, once the motor is at running temperature (predetermined by the FICV), the IACV is doing all the work. I've had no issues with the two wire IACV and setup was super simple after I figured out the settings. I'm sure the three wire sensor would be even better because of more "active" control once it's dialed in.