good base map for 2jzgte 440cc

nolagg · Post by **nolagg** » Tue Jan 19, 2016 4:07 pm

Hey I've tried the base maps ecumasters have sent me and it just keeps cranking , no start.anyone have this problem with a modified map to offer?
Stock jdm 2jzgte
S366 single turbo

Thanks in advance

Btw when I go to 1200cc injectors in the next few weeks, what do I do in order to drive it to my tuner?

PSI-Motor · Post by **PSI-Motor** » Tue Jan 19, 2016 5:15 pm

Did you press F2 after uploading your map?
Is the fuelpump running?
Does it syncronice when cranking?
If not try to change falling/rising on you camsensor settings.

nolagg · Post by **nolagg** » Tue Jan 19, 2016 6:26 pm

Yes fuel pump runs,
It syncs when cranking,I did press f2.

Can you explain the rising and falling? What's the difference so I understand.?

RHD · Post by **RHD** » Wed Jan 20, 2016 5:52 am

in the primary and secondary trigger setting there is a setting for falling or rising edge for the signals. This is related to how the signal voltage gets sent to the EMU, the two sensor wires can be connected either way so when the sensor passes a trigger tooth the wave form could be going positive (rising) or it could be going negative(falling), so the emu needs to know which one matches your wiring configuration. The wrong one will result in trigger errors and timing that moves with rpm rise when the ignition is locked and it should be steady.

it may also be that you have wired the rear cam sensor in as your secondary trigger in that case try entering 3 in your ignition offset

WHPZach · Post by **WHPZach** » Thu Jan 21, 2016 12:07 am

RHD wrote:in the primary and secondary trigger setting there is a setting for falling or rising edge for the signals. This is related to how the signal voltage gets sent to the EMU, the two sensor wires can be connected either way so when the sensor passes a trigger tooth the wave form could be going positive (rising) or it could be going negative(falling), so the emu needs to know which one matches your wiring configuration. The wrong one will result in trigger errors and timing that moves with rpm rise when the ignition is locked and it should be steady.

it may also be that you have wired the rear cam sensor in as your secondary trigger in that case try entering 3 in your ignition offset

He's using a plug and play adapter, no modifications to the trigger settings should be necessary.

Ignition timing needs to be verified with a timing light, that should be the next step.

nolagg · Post by **nolagg** » Thu Jan 21, 2016 3:16 am

Why would I need to verify ignition running with a light when I know it's dead on and also ruins prefect on stock ems? Just doesn't make sense, can you explain that to me? Or do you want to know if the ecumasters is firing the right way? Every one I know who had an after market ems like aem,pro efi, just got a base map and cranked it over.

WHPZach · Post by **WHPZach** » Thu Jan 21, 2016 8:39 pm

nolagg wrote:Why would I need to verify ignition running with a light when I know it's dead on and also ruins prefect on stock ems? Just doesn't make sense, can you explain that to me? Or do you want to know if the ecumasters is firing the right way? Every one I know who had an after market ems like aem,pro efi, just got a base map and cranked it over.

No matter what EMS you're using, you should verify base timing before starting the car. Always, always, always. An aftermarket ECU is not the same thing as a stock ECU since so many parameters are adjustable. It's just safe practice to verify ignition timing before trying to start the car, and that's a quick way to verify that the ignition system is functioning correctly with the new EMS. We've sold at least 30-40 2JZ plug and play setups and most start right away.

You need to make sure that the fuel pump is turning on and that you have good fuel pressure, your battery has a good charge, ignition timing is verified, and go from there. Crank it for a couple of seconds and give it a little throttle and see what it does. If it doesn't start, pull a spark plug and see if it's wet with fuel. If it is, dry all the plugs, decrease the cranking pulsewidth and try again.

If you don't have a timing light or can't borrow one, I really recommend taking the car to a professional so that they can follow the startup guide and get it running.

Scooter · Post by **Scooter** » Mon Jan 25, 2016 2:33 am

whats your ignition order and fuel order?

nolagg · Post by **nolagg** » Mon Jan 25, 2016 3:06 am

[quote="Scooter"]whats your ignition order and fuel order?[/quote

Here's the map

Scooter · Post by **Scooter** » Mon Jan 25, 2016 3:15 am

Are you running 1coil per cylinder?

Scooter · Post by **Scooter** » Mon Jan 25, 2016 3:19 am

Try this map. I changed injector phase to 315462. Also changed the coil dwell wizard to single fire coils

nolagg · Post by **nolagg** » Mon Jan 25, 2016 3:41 am

Scooter wrote:Try this map. I changed injector phase to 315462. Also changed the coil dwell wizard to single fire coils

Do I ruin the risk of ruining anything?

The map I uploaded was from the ecumaster tech them selves. Please explain before I try it what's going on exactly in the map. Also what's your setup?jw and thanks again.

Scooter · Post by **Scooter** » Mon Jan 25, 2016 4:04 am

My setup is 2jzgte with 67mm, with vvti coilpacks.

The ignition firing order is 241536. Similarly the injectors need to fire in the same sequence, but offset one cylinder to allow adequate mixture.

With my setup, as wasted spark, my ignition order is 231231. Coil pack sparks two cylinders at the same time. And the fuel injector order is 315462....coil 1 is cyl 2&5, coil 2 is cyl 3&4, coil 3 is cyl 1&6

Also try to turn on batch all injectors, under the engine start section. This might helpvwith cold starts

nolagg · Post by **nolagg** » Mon Jan 25, 2016 4:05 am

Yah im still on stock gte non vvti coils...hey msn are you on fb by any chance?

Scooter · Post by **Scooter** » Mon Jan 25, 2016 4:29 am

pm sent

RHD · Post by **RHD** » Tue Jan 26, 2016 12:00 pm

I also used the base map from ECUmaster and our one fired straight up first try so there must be some wiring issues.

The only issue we had was with the oem earth wires this might be your problem, if one of the earths are missing then the injectors or coils may not be working.

It is often best to run 4 separate earth wires directly from the Emu to the engine block and bypass the factory harness and harness connector all together. This will help all your sensors and electrical auxiliaries

Zazzn · Post by **Zazzn** » Sun Feb 25, 2018 6:01 am

Hi All,

Sorry to bring up a dead thread, but I started up on the base map with 440's except I have 650 Sard's.

The question I have is idle is very strange, and I'm trying to understand why the ignition output 1-6 does not follow a normal firing pattern for a 6 cylinder? It's similar just offset by like 2 or 3. Why would you do this? I suspect it has to do with the fact that the cam sensor used is the middle engine one for the PNP harness?

When I lock the timing to 10 degrees and use my timing gun, it's way off and way retarded. I have to go form 66 degrees to like 45 to get it to 10 but then the car does not want to idle and behaves like a bag of shit.

Furthermore, I'm trying to understand how to control the fueling of the car. When I change the VE ti does not seem to change the AFR.

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good base map for 2jzgte 440cc

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Re: good base map for 2jzgte 440cc

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Re: good base map for 2jzgte 440cc

Re: good base map for 2jzgte 440cc

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